Welcome to gansey knitting!

For errata, please scroll to bottom.

I’m sharing a few tutorials that might help you as you navigate the trickier parts of the gansey. First – let’s take a look at the underarm gusset. I’m kind of a sucker for a beautiful armpit, and it’s one of my favorite things about this sweater. This example shows you what the first half of the underarm gusset looks like (this is just after I picked up the stitches to start working the sleeve):

When you pick up the sleeve stitches, you should end with markers on either side of the gusset as illustrated below:

Working the Russian Graft on the shoulder is pretty simple, but it helps to see what you’re going for. If you haven’t already watched this basic tutorial on how to work the graft, start here. The grid below gives you an up close example of how to get started, but be sure to watch the video, too.

The finished Russian Graft should look like this:

Now it’s time to work the shoulder gusset! Here’s what you’re aiming for – the finished gusset should look something like this:

To achieve this shoulder gusset, your steps will look like this.

  1. Note the last stitch you have left from working the Russian Graft, with the remainder of the shoulder stitches still on the needles.
  2. It can help to put the single leftover stitch from the Russian Graft onto a new needle. Hold your needles as shown in the photo to help you get ready to work the gusset.
  3. Insert the needle (with the single stitch from the Russian Graft) into the first available stitch edge on the left needle as shown.
  4. Knit into the stitch as shown.

The first two images below show knitting that first stitch. You will then stop and turn your work as shown in image 3 (bottom left) and purl across the stitches on your needle. Next, purl into the first available stitch on the left needle as shown.

You’ll continue in this manner – working just one stitch from the needle, then you will turn and work across the row in stockinette so you can work one stitch off the other needle. The pattern explains this step by step, but these photos should help. Continue in this manner until you have completed the gusset and it looks similar to this final image.


In pattern version 12.30.18 please note the following correction affecting cable row 1. Only the section in bold was affected, and only the numbers in blue have been updated.

Cable round 1: P 5 (3, 4, 4, 3, 5, 3, 5, 4, 3, 5), pm1, k4, ktbl, c4b, [p2, k4, ktbl, c4b] rep bet brackets to 5 (3, 4, 4, 3, 5, 3, 5, 4, 3, 5), st before mB…. (etc)